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Eating while listening to ocean sounds or while handling certain objects sounds like the ultimate in gimmickry, but throughout the 13 courses presented to us, the food ­really does speak for itself. I exclaim over the beauty of an origami pasta dish, and maintain that “An Education in Umami” is the best thing I have ever eaten. Youssef constantly uses the word “delicious” as he talks us through the courses, and his team certainly delivers.

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