Kitchen Theory is one of those strange restaurants that doesn’t look like a restaurant at all. Hidden away among the London backstreets around Holborn and Chancery Lane, it’s the sort of place that, were it not for kindly staff waiting on the door to usher in hesitant journalists, could have you knocking on doors for hours before you arrived at the right spot. Most restaurants, from McDonalds to The Fat Duck, tend to make it pretty clear that within lies a place to gorge yourself on your choice of burgers or snail porridge, but Kitchen Theory is a side-door sort of establishment that uses the air of a speakeasy or underground club to add to its considerable mystique.